At the 2015 US Brewers Cup Championship in Long Beach, Calif. Photo courtesy of SCAA.
by Clark Le Compte
Brewers Cup could be considered the younger sibling to the higher-profile, SCAA-sponsored
Barista Championship.
As younger siblings do, it has in recent years combined scrappiness and
growth spurts to break free from the elder’s shadow and form its own
identity.
As a venue for coffee professionals and home brewers to
meet and share knowledge, skills, innovations and experience, there’s no
better event.
Unlike the barista competition, Brewers Cup attracts a
diverse competitor base, from professional roasters who manage every
phase of the green bean to final extraction process, to passionate home
roasters and brewers, to well-established coffee company CEOs. This kind
of variety in competitors’ backgrounds leads to unpredictable, and
unexpectedly rewarding, results.
The home brewers and enthusiasts who may not be immersed in
the coffee trade on a daily basis have a different perspective from
that of those competitors representing the industry. With less access to
the whole ‘farm to cup’ process, they tend to exercise impressive and
organically developed sensory awareness and methodological creativity.
Consider the fact that, historically, many of the best and
most popular brewing devices have come from outside the coffee industry.
Innovators such as chemist Peter Schlumbohm (Chemex),
housewife-to-entrepreneur Melitta Bentz (paper lined filter top), and
the engineer-machinist team of de Ponti and Bialetti (moka pot), have
introduced devices and methods that have shaped the quality and
experience of coffee worldwide.
Coffee brewing is a daily ritual of the people, and Brewers
Cup represents an ideal platform for this kind of development, with a
mutual sharing of technique, information and equipment among home
brewers and professionals alike.
Post author Clark Le Compte competing at the 2015 US Brewers Cup. Photo provided by Le Compte.
On the other side of the competitor spectrum are people like 2014 Northeast Regional Champion
Todd Carmichael of
La Colombe and the popular Travel Channel show “Dangerous Grounds,” who chose the US Brewers Cup in Seattle to premiere his new brewer,
The Dragon.
Riffing on a long-established siphon design, The Dragon represents an
insider’s modification of an outsider’s innovation. It is brewing
evolution in progress.
An arguably more accessible competition than other coffee
championships, Brewers Cup requires few tools without a reliance on
fancy machinery. It is truly a test of skill — the single skill of
coffee brewing.
“For me, it is exactly the use of affordable, common
brewing devices that make competitions like Brewers Cup and Aeropress
Championship wonderful and approachable for either home or shop
baristas,” says Mikey Rinaldo, Bikram Yoga Instructor, home brewing
enthusiast, and 5th place winner at Southeast Regionals this year. “One
thing I especially like about the Brewers Cup is that when sound
parameters are in place, I can brew using non-coffee gear — hence my
choice of a tea ball and a cocktail shaker for immersion.”
It seems every year, some creative freestylings of Brewers
Cup competitors challenge traditional thought and pique the interest of
the industry at large.
Sifting ground coffee is one example that has now put
brewers in two camps: those who value even extraction from uniform,
sieved grounds; and those who believe a variable grind creates depth of
flavor. Last year, we saw “polished immersion” — brewing coffee in a
cupping bowl then pouring it through a filter — and this year we see
competitors like Rinaldo modifying the idea, and placing.
At its core, Brewers Cup is less a competition and more a showcase of exploration.
“Competition begets innovation and fosters deeper
appreciation and passion,” says Neil Balkcom, chair of the SCAA Brewers
Cup Subcommittee and Director of Coffee Operations for
M.E. Swing Coffee Roasters. “So what does that matter? Because it’s a proven way to increase quality.”
Sarah Anderson of Intelligentsia LA was named 2015 US Brewers Cup champion. Photo courtesy of SCAA.
With its relatively open-ended competition platform,
Brewers Cup asks the questions, “Where can we go?” and “How can we get
there?” Competition preparation is all about asking those questions and
taking that journey. The competition itself puts the answers and the
navigation to the test. Does this technique improve quality? Here is a
panel of expert judges to tell you yes or no.
Are these innovations useful in a cafe’s day to day
pour-over bar or in a home brewer’s normal routine? Or, are they just
esoteric techniques useful to win competitions? My sense is that as
Brewers Cup grows in age, reputation, and attendance, it will actually
drive industry-wide innovation in brewing methodology and equipment more
so than its older sibling, the Barista Championship.
The next step in Brewers Cup, I believe, will be more
competitors like Carmichael, who pair with designers, or engineers, to
create new brewers for the competition. For some time now, even good
design houses have been reshaping brewers we’re already long familiar
with. Perhaps it will be competitor-designer teams at Brewers Cups
breaking truly new ground.
“The competition itself is a wonderful gathering of people who are
intimate with coffee and technicians at their craft,” says Balkcom.
“Ideas are born, collaborations begin, relationships start.”